Oil Cooler Replacement Hoses
I've been waiting till its time to change my oil again to replace
the oil cooler hoses, as these guys have been leaking for some
time. I decided to replace them with Aeroquip
Stainless Steel Braided hoses, since the price difference isn't
all that much, and maybe it could help in the cooling of the oil,
since these hoses run so close to the exhaust manifold. But 3'
of regular oil cooler hoses from Autozone can be used for $3 total.
The 2 hoses you need to replace are 16" and 20" long,
with 3/8" Inside Diameter (or -6AN).
Here's the 3 feet of hose I ordered from Summit
Racing for $15 + shipping, part #AER-FCA0603
I also ordered new copper crush washers for the banjo bolts
from the local Toyota dealer, about $4 total. They are circled in red in the
below pic (the green ovals representing the hoses I am to replace). I also
purchased new worm gear clamps at local Autozone (smallest size they had,
Washer Part #s: 90430-12018 & 90430-14235 (need 2 of each)
And since I'm up in this area working, I went ahead
and replaced the o-rings that go between the oil filter, oil filter
sandwich, and the block. Go here
for that write-up. And I also dropped the oil
pan to replace its gasket. I would suggest at least doing
the oil filter gaskets at the same time as doing the oil cooler
1) Jack up rear of car and support on jack stands.
2) Drain oil and remove oil filter. Remove the plastic under
body cover, nearest the engine.
3) Remove the 3 oil cooler connections from oil
pan and oil cooler. I believe it's a 19mm for the banjo bolt to
the oil pan. For removing the lines from the oil cooler, remove
the hose clamps, and then using vice grips grasp the hose and
twist. Once you break it loose, twist and pull at the same time.
4) If you do not have AC, skip to step 5.
Unfortunately you have AC, and the heavy arse compressor is
in the way for most of the rest of the work. So you will need to remove it
from its bracket to get to things more easily. First, loosen the AC idle pulley,
and loosen the belt. Loosen the 15mm bolt. (Ignore the fact that the timing
belt cover is off, I reused a pic from another repair.)
Loosen the pulley bolt, either 12 or 14mm can't remember, and
remove the belt:
Now remove the four long 12mm bolts that hold the AC compressor
to the engine. Before you get the last bolt all the way loose, tie the compressor
up, so that it does not hang by its wires and hoses.
Circled in green are 2 of the bolts. There are 2 more on top
side which you can't see. The one on the passenger side top, you need to get
your rachet extension in between the 2 pipes to reach it. The compressor rests
on the 2 red circled ledges.
Here's how I tied the compressor to the AC idle pulley bracket.
I then wrapped the string around the compressor, and attached the other side
around the oil cooler.
5) Now finish removing the second oil cooler hose. This hose
is connected to a solid metal line that is held in place by a 12mm bolt to
the block. Remove this (green circle). Red circle is just indicating where
one of the places where the AC compressor bolts to its bracket. Also, remove
the banjo bolt holding this metal line to the oil filter adapter. I believe
it is a 21mm.
6) Here's pics of the oil cooler lines removed:
Lines taken apart:
7) Clean up all the fittings that you are going to reuse. Cut
your new hose to length. If you are using regular rubber hose, clean up the
heat shields, and place them over the appropriate hoses. Put the banjo ends
on the new hoses. The 16" hose goes with the long metal piece, while
the 20" hose uses the short banjo end.
Note: With the 3/8" stainless hose, it was a pain fitting
the hose over the metal lines. The diameter of the hose actually looked smaller
than the stock hose. The frays of the braids are fairly sharp, so wear some
gloves when squeezing the pieces together.
8) Install the lines using the new copper crush
washers for the banjo bolts, tighten the hose clamps, and torque
the banjo bolts to spec: oil pan banjo = 18ft-lbs, oil filter
adapter banjo = 22 ft-lbs.
9) If you have AC, reattach the compressor to its bracket (torque
= 20flt-bls), tighten the AC belt and it's idle pulley.
10) Refill car with oil.
11) Remove car from jack stands and start it up. Check for leaks
over the next few days.
Just alone, the oil cooler lines would take about an hour and
a half the first time. Add about 30-45 min if you have AC. The ends of the
cooler lines are a pain to get to and get the vise grips on. I did the cooler
lines, oil filter adapter o-rings, dropped the oil pan to reseal it, and fixed
a broken stud in the exhaust header (where it connects to the downpipe) and
that took me all day and evening on a Saturday. This also includes cleaning
up all the parts thoroughly and clean up of the garage (and taking these pics!).