4AGE 20V Blacktop

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Diary of Swap
Cooling System


85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

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Air Intake Filter
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch
Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump


87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line


Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links


87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot

SideMarker Mod

Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch


2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin


Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

20V Blacktop Swap - Cooling System


Another one of the main fabrication hurdles with the swap (but one of the easiest and funnest!) is routing the coolant system lines. Luckily, the input & output of the water system is on the exhaust side of the engine.

Instead of trying to find rubber hose of the exact shape, I purchased some 1-1/4" 0D 6061 Aluminum pipe from a local supplier for the straight runs. It was cheap and very easy to work with.

The engine-radiator line was easy to fabricate. If you notice closely I reused a line from the 16V engine as well as one from the 20V clip.

The radiator-engine line was more complicated since I needed to incorporate the filler neck. Also, I am not using the stock MR2 oil cooler, so I don't need to route the line over the exhaust manifold. (if you do use the oil cooler, just mount the filler neck over the manifold.) I ran the line over to the driver's side of the car, straight up to near the fuse box and then back over into the thermostat housing. For the elbows I just purchased 2 proper sized hoses that each had two 90 degree bends. Then just made up some brackets to hold the pipe to the firewall. I attached the filler neck to the firewall as well.


The heater core lines are a lot easier since you just use flexible rubber hose. I forget the diameter I used, but it's the same as the 16V lines. I used the same bracket that was on the tranny to hold the lines in place. You can sorta make them out in the below pic:

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Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.