4AGE 20V Blacktop

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Diary of Swap
Cooling System


85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

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Air Intake Filter
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch
Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump


87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line


Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links


87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot

SideMarker Mod

Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch


2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin


Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

Replacing Door Hinges

*Courtesy of clemr2 from the MR2 forum.

After 15+ years of use, most driver side doors are beginning to sag. To see how bad your door is sagging, open the drivers side door about 8-10 inches, and lift up on the end of it. If it deflects any, then the door is sagging. Compare it to the passenger's door, which shouldn't be near as bad.

Door Hinges Part #s:

  • 68720-17010 Upper LH (Driver)
  • 68740-17010 Lower LH (Driver)
  • 68710-17010 Upper RH (Passenger)
  • 68730-17010 Lower RH (Passenger)

Price is $28 each from Jay Marks Toyota


1) Open the door all the way and place a floor jack (with padding to protect door) under the center of the door.

2) Remove pin that holds on the "brass colored lever thing in the middle that keeps the door from opening too far". Use pliers to close leafs at bottom of pin while pushing up though hole.


3) Remove 4 (12mm) bolts that hold door to hinges. It would be helpful to have someone to help balance the door on the jack, but it is doable alone (I did it alone). I had to used a 1/4" drive ratchet because I couldn't fit anything bigger. PB Blaster and a 36" long pipe (cheater bar on ratchet) were needed to "persuade" the bolts to come loose.


4) Slide door on jack away from car.

5) Without the door on, mark the location of the hinge, so that installation is easier. You can get to the 4 (12mm) bolts that hold the hinge to the body without removing the fender or any fender bolts. I was able to fit the 1/4" drive ratchet to loosen two of the bolts. The other two require a wrench (non-offset works fine). PB Blaster was again helpful.

6) Remove hinges and clean off the old silicone/caulking that was around the hinges.

7) Put new hinges on in the same position as original and tighten bolts.

8) Roll door on jack into position and put bolts in. This step requires help to get door into position.

9) Put middle lever back in and slide pin back into place.

10) Check door operation. Mine was still low. You cannot get to the hinge-to-body bolt with door on, so you either have to remove fender or door to adjust door position. I figured since I just had the door off, it would be easier to remove those 4 bolts again instead of removing fender. I removed the door, and tilted the bottom hinge up. When I tried putting the door back on, it would not line up with the bottom hinge (it was tilted too much). Adjust the bottom hinge back down a little, and put the door back on. Fixed the problem. Door closes perfectly now.

11) I then adjusted my striker plate to raise the closed door position slightly (to get a tighter seal with the window closed).

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Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.