4AGE 20V Blacktop

transparent transparent

Diary of Swap
Cooling System



85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

transparent transparent



Air Intake Filter
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter

Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch

Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump


87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line


Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links


87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot
SideMarker Mod
Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch


2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin


Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

Steering Knuckle Removal

Here's a step-by-step guide to removing the steering knuckle, in case you need to replace your wheel bearings. The pictures below are with the strut assembly removed as I am doing the entire suspension work at the same time & had just removed the struts.

Tools Needed:

  • Various sockets, wrenches, & ratchet
  • 2 or 3 jaw puller (don't get them from Harbor Freight! they stink!)
  • Jack & stands


1) Loosen wheel lugnuts. Raise and support front of car, and remove wheel.


2) Remove caliper by the two 12mm bolts. Then remove the two 17mm bolts that attach the mounting brackets to the steering knuckle, indicated below. Remove the mounting bracket and brake pads from the rotor.


3) The rotor should then pull off.


4) Hang the caliper from the strut assembly, or if you removed the assembly like me, then hang it from the strut top bolt holes in the frame. This is so you don't put any tension on the brake lines.


5) At this point, I would remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. If you have the strut assembly in place, the hub is solidly in place. (I probably should have done this before removing the strut assembly to make it alot easier...) Anyway, remove the cotter pin and 17mm bolt from the bottom of the tie rod end. Attach a 2 or 3 jaw puller to pop the tie rod out of the steering knuckle.


6) Scribe a mark in the strut bracket to indicate the current camber position. (Ignore the loose bolt and the brake line...)


7) Remove the steeering knuckle from the strut assembly, two 17mm nuts/bults. (Ignore the brake line.)


8) Remove the two 14mm bolts that hold the knuckle to the ball joint.

The steering knuckle should then fall in your lap and you are ready to take it to a machine shop to have them press out/in the wheel bearings. Or if you have the proper tools, you can do it yourself. I just took it to a shop, $25 for one hub.


9) Now would be a good time to change the ball joint and tie rod end if you haven't in a long while.

10) The installation is opposite the removal.

Home   •   Links  •   Email
(remove NOSPAM from resulting email address)
Thanks for Visiting! - Eric Southers

Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.