4AGE 20V Blacktop

transparent transparent

Diary of Swap
Cooling System


85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

transparent transparent



Air Intake Filter
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch
Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump


87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line


Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links


87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot

SideMarker Mod

Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch


2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin


Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

20V Blacktop Swap - Exhaust


For the exhaust, you need to decide if you want to use the 16V manifold or the 20V. The 20V manifold is a much more efficient design, however involves more customization that the 16V. In both cases you will need to weld. I'll cover both scenarios here.

Using the 20V Manifold

First of all, if you are reusing a C50 transmission you must use the 16V manifold as the 20V header will interfere with the starter. (Actually, someone just got done with his swap and says that the 20V header fits fine when using the starter on the exhaust side. So, YMMV.) If you have a C52 that has starter humps on both intake and exhaust sides you will need to move the starter to the intake side. I'll leave the relocating exercise to you, as I don't have much experience with it. However, I would recommend just using the C56 tranny as it is better geared for the high 20V powerband.

At any rate, you need to mate the 20V header with the MR2's exhaust system. If you currently have a nice exhaust and don't plan on replacing it, you will need to either extend your current downpipe to reach the header, or you will need to extend the header down to reach the downpipe. I believe there's about a 2" difference that needs to be made up. You will also need a custom flange to mate with the header. If you purchased a front clip, just use the flange off the downpipe.

I was building a whole new exhaust at the time, so I just reused the 20V downpipe and built the rest of the exhaust system off of it. The 20V downpipe is nice because it has a flexjoint in it, so that I didn't have to incorporate a typical flexpipe. Here's pics of my finished exhaust.


Using the 16V Manifold

If you use the 16V manifold (stock or a TRD) you will need to expand the 'ears' of the flange. Here's pics courtesy of Dave Spinetti from his web page.

Ears cut off, notice the gap needed to be filled:


Home   •   Links  •   Email
(remove NOSPAM from resulting email address)
Thanks for Visiting! - Eric Southers

Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.