4AGE 20V Blacktop

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Diary of Swap
Cooling System



85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

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Air Intake Filter
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter

Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch

Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump


87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line


Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links


87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot
SideMarker Mod
Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch


2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin


Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild

Since I had the transmission out of the car to do the 20V engine swap, I decided to rebuild the clutch slave & master cylinder. It's a good idea to rebuild/replace both at the same time. Here's the procedure for the slave.

Pics of the rebuild kit from Toyota, Part # 04313-12030, ~$9:

Removal of Slave Cylinder from Tranny

I'm not exactly sure how to do this, as I removed mine with the tranny out of the car. So I don't have any pics, but here's the steps from the BGB.

1) Disconnect the clutch line & bleeder tubes from the slave cylinder. Expect some leakage. If you want to prevent as much mess as possible, bleed the system from the bleed screw.

2) Remove the clip and bleeder tube with the bleeder plug from the bracket.

3) Remove the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder to the transmission and remove the cylinder.


Installation of the Rebuild Kit

1) Here's the slave out of the vehicle.

2) Remove the boot from the cylinder. You may have some brake fluid leak come out when you remove the boot, if the piston seals have been worn. Also remove the pin from the boot, as you will be reusing the pin.

3) Now you will see the piston inside the cylinder. If your seals are as worn as mine were, you can be able to remove the piston from the cylinder with your finger. If you can't do this, then you will need compressed air to 'pop' the piston out of the cylinder.

Piston and spring out of the cylinder:

The old and new parts beside each other. Notice the o-ring seals on the 2 pistons. The old ones are flat, whereas the new ones have distinct ridges.

4) Clean up the inside of the cylinder with denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid. Also clean up the old pin, use very fine sandpaper if necessary.

5) Attach the new spring to the new piston. Lube up the seals with grease (use the same type of grease found in the caliper rebuild kits).

6) Push the spring/piston into the cylinder, spring first of course.

7) Slide the pin into the boot. This takes quite a bit of force, as the fit is real tight.

8) Pack grease on the face of the piston, wehre the pin will sit.

9) Place the pin onto the piston and slide the boot over the lip of the cylinder.

10) Reinstall the slave cylinder onto the transmission opposite of how you removed it. This will be a little tough lining up if your transmission is still in the car. A ton easier with the tranny out of the car of course.

11) Thoroughly bleed the clutch.

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Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.