4AGE 20V Blacktop

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Diary of Swap
Cooling System



85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

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Air Intake Filter
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter

Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch

Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump


87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line


Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links


87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot
SideMarker Mod
Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch


2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin


Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

Front Bushings Install Page 1/2

Page 1 and 2


Going to be replacing all the bushings with the TRD bushing set, while I have my suspension apart. I'll try to show the removal of the various suspension pieces. Things may be a little different if you are not replacing everything like I am though.

*Procedure of pressing the bushings out with just 2/3 jaw pullers courtesy of Dale Conner & Bill Merton from MR2 forum

Front Removal

1) Here's a picture of what all is replaced in the TRD bushing set: strut top (green), control arm (purple), & strut arm (red). So, you need to remove the strut assembly & the two arms. The steering knuckle will be close to being removed, as it will still be attached to the tie rod end. If you don't believe you need to replace the tie rod end bushing (which you need to purchase the entire end, not just bushing if you do), you can skip that step.

2) I would suggest loosening the strut bar nut first. If you have a deep well 22mm socket, you can use a ratchet. Else, a 22mm wrench will work.


3) Loosen lugnuts. Raise and support the front of the vehicle. Remove wheels.

4) Just for sake of simplicity for this page, I'm going to point you to other pages where I go over the strut assembly and steering knuckle removal. If you do not want to replace the strut top, or have the Fensport bushing set (which does not include a new strut top) then you do not need to remove the strut assembly.

5) Measure the length of 'A' below, so that caster can be put back to the correct spot.

6) Remove the strut arm from the control arm, by removing the two 17mm nuts.


5) Remove the bolt that you loosened in step 1. You should then be able to remove the strut bar. Here's some pics of it.

And disassembled. The 2 bushings (green arrows) are to be replaced by TRD ones. And the collar (red arrow) needs to be replaced with a new one from the dealer.


6) If you aren't replacing the ball joints, skip this step.

I'd suggest removing the ball joint from the control arm at this point. Unless you have a vice handy. I placed a jack under the control arm to raise it up and then use a 2 or 3 jaw puller to pop it out. Beware, the ball joint will literally POP up once it is loose. So keep away from inside the fenderwell while you tighten the puller. (The below picture was taken before I actually got the ball joint off. That's what the strut arm is there, and the jack isn't.)


7) Remove the 17mm bolt holding the control arm to the frame of the car.

Here's a pic of the control arm out of the car (ball joint is still in place):


8) If you've noticed, there's only one bushing per side that needs pressed out in the front, the one in the end of the control arm. Here's some pics of how I went about doing it. The "pusher" part of the puller I used was big enough that it didn't fit inside the bushing, so I was able to just use it, instead of using a stack of washers. It would probably be easier to put the control arm in a vice, but since I didn't have one at the time, I tried it without. It was surprisingly easy, just have the cheater bar handy. Here's some pics of the different steps as I was pushing it out with a 2 jaw puller.


Go to Page 2 for the install process

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Thanks for Visiting! - Eric Southers

Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.