4AGE 20V Blacktop

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Diary of Swap
Cooling System



85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

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Air Intake Filter
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter

Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch

Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump


87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line


Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links


87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot
SideMarker Mod
Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch


2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin


Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

Front Strut Replacement Page 1/2

Page 1 and 2

Finally, started redoing the entire suspension in the car. I went ahead and removed the strut assemblies first, that way this writeup is more meaningful.

Tools needed:

  • Various sockets, wrenches, pliers & ratchet
  • Cheater bar for those stubborn nuts & bolts
  • Spring compressor
  • Bench Vice
  • Monkey wrench or large channel locks
  • Dremel tool (maybe, see step 4)

Front Removal (pictures show driver's side replacement)

1) Raise hood of car. Remove the strut top dust cover, and loosen the 22mm bolt holding the strut in place. Do NOT remove the nut, just loosen. This will help you later on.


2) Loosen lug nuts on front wheels.

3) Raise and support front of the car. Remove wheels.


4) Long step. Take a look at the brake line and how it is attached to the strut assembly.

There is a clip holding it in place below the tab. Pull this out with a pair of pliers.

Quick pic of the clip out:

Now, to avoid having to remove the brake line from the caliper, and having to refill the brake fluid, you should be able to bend the tab out of the way. On mine, the tab already had a slit in it to make this possible. I'm not sure if this is how it is stock or not, so you may have to cut at it with a dremel tool.

You can easily move the line out free from the strut assembly.


5) Remove the sway bar end link. I chose only to remove it from the bottom, as the top nut/bolt is a pain to get to. So I didn't remove it completely until the strut assembly was off the car. (I have aftermarket adjustable endlinks, so the stock ones won't look like this.)


6) Remove the three 14mm bolts holding the strut top to the frame of the car.


7) Support the control arm, under the ball joint with a jack.


8) Scribe a mark onto the lower strut bracket, so that when reinstalling the camber will be fairly accurate. (Ignore the bolt being loose, that's the next step)


9) Remove the two 17mm nuts/bolts holding the strut assembly to the steering knuckle.


10) It may take some working of the strut assembly and wheel hub to get it loose. Once it does, be prepared as the hub will fall toward you.


11) Remove the strut.


12) Disassemble the struts. Unfortunately, I do not have any pics of this part of the process, as I did this over at a friend's house who has a vice. I'll try to go through the steps though. It's fairly straightforward. Take a look at my rear strut disassembly write-up for some pics of this part of the process.

Take spring compressor to the springs, to relieve pressure from the top spring perch. Remove top 22mm nut from the strut top. It should be easy to do, if you loosened it back on step one while the car was on the ground. If you didn't happen to do this step for some reason, you can put the top spring perch in a vice (need 6+" vice) and then loosen the nut. The strut insert may eventually begin to turn with the nut. If so, grab the very top of the insert with a pair of vice grips. Since you are replacing these it shouldn't matter too much.

Ok, now that you have the strut top off remove the spring from the assembly, and release the spring compressor. You now will have the shock absorber held into the strut assembly. Put the assembly in the vice, and go at the nut with a monkey wrench or channel locks.

Here's a picture of the strut assembly & the nut.


Here's everything all laid apart, excluding the dampener, as I threw that thing away immediately...

Goto Page 2 for the install.

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Thanks for Visiting! - Eric Southers

Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.