4AGE 20V Blacktop

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Diary of Swap
Cooling System



85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

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Air Intake Filter
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter

Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch

Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump


87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line


Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links


87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot
SideMarker Mod
Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch


2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin


Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

Front Strut Replacement Page 2/2

Page 1 and 2

Front Install

1) Insert the new dampener in the strut housing. Add a coolant or oil bath in the housing, filling it up about 1-2" below the top of the assembly. Consult your strut instructions for more about this.


2) Place the housing in a vice and tighten the gland nut (a new one should've come with the struts) with a large pair of channel locks or monkey wrench. Make sure not to score or scratch the dampener.


3) Once the appropriate torque is applied to the gland nut measure the distance left in the threads. It should be within spec of the dampeners. Consult their directions. You may need to obtain a spacer. (btw, I had no problems with the Illuminas.)


4) If you are replacing the stock springs with performance lowering springs, you most likely will need to cut the stock bumpstops. Consult the directions that come with your new springs. For my ST springs it was recommended to cut at least half of the bumpstop. I cut along the notch as indicated below with a hacksaw.


5) Slide the bumpstop on the strut, and place the new spring. Make sure the spring is placed the correct way.

Also ensure that the end of spring sits off the edge on the lower spring perch.


6) Next up is the insulator and upper spring perch. Notice the notch in the perch should fit into the top of the strut, so that it fits only one of two ways.

The correct way is so that the arrow points to the outside of the vehicle. Double check how the assembly will fit in the car to get this right.


7) Slip a new dust seal over the top of the strut.


8) Now attach the strut top and the new bolt that should've came with the struts.


If you purchased the TRD bushing set and happen to be doing this modification while you have the struts out, you will need to either drill a hole in the strut mounting location or press out one of the bolts in the strut top. I decided on drilling the holes. Here's the new strut top placed upside down to mark the location of the new hole. The strut top only goes in one way, notice the bolt circled in blue is offset from center.

Here's the new hole.


9) Now it's time to put the assembly into the car. Push the steering knuckle out of the way and insert the top of the assembly first. Make sure to align the stut top appropriately so that the top spring perch is pointing the correct way. Remember the "OUT" Arrow in step 6?


10) Temporarily secure the strut assembly by placing the 3 (or 4 if you have the TRD strut top) 14mm nuts.


11) Position the assembly onto the steering knuckle. This takes a little wrestling with the two pieces. You may need a mallet and block of wood to encourage them along. Insert the two 17mm bolts making sure to place the camber adjuster in its previous location.


12) Tighten everything down to spec and put everything else back together that you took off to get to the strut assemblies.

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Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.