4AGE 20V Blacktop

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Diary of Swap
Cooling System



85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

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Air Intake Filter
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter

Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch

Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump


87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line


Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links


87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot
SideMarker Mod
Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch


2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin


Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

87+ Tail Light Conversion - Rekeying the Lock

One of the big issues with moving to the 87+ tail lights is changing out the lock cylinder, as it is different as well. To enable you to use the same key as before, you will have to rekey the lock. It's quite simpler than you think. Just make sure you have a clean workspace and ample light, as you will be working with very small parts.

Here's a pic of the lock assembly:


1) Turn the assembly on end and remove the cam's E-clip. (sorry for the blurry pic)


Here's the cam removed:

2) Now, simply remove the protective rubber boot.


3) Here comes the part where you have to watch out with tiny pieces falling out. Remove the cap, by simply prying up on the bottom edges.

4) Remove the cover by gently prying on the 2 tabs. The flap & flap spring may fall out. If not, remove them.

5) Now, you need to disconnect the cam extension from the cylinder. Do that by removing the E-clip holding them together.

6) Slide out the extension

And slide out the cylinder.

7) If you have the old cylinder from the 85/86 you can just simply reuse it. You can skip the rest of these steps and just reassemble the opposite of removal.

Since you can't/don't want to reuse the old one, you just need to rekey the cylinder. Insert the key you will be using into the cylinder. You will notice that a few (all?) of the wafers do not line up with the edge of the cylinder (shear line).

8) Make note of which do not line up. Remove the key, and gently remove those wafers. They will simply lift out by your fingers. You may need to insert a small screwdriver from the bottom to help push them out.

Be careful of the springs and ball bearings that are hidden underneath the wafers. They should stay in place with the wafers removed.

9) Exchange positions of the wafers that do not line up. And by trial and error with inserting the key, you should be able to come up with a pattern that allows the wafers to line up perfectly with the cylinder.

In my case, I ended up having one wafer that would never line up. So I simply just removed it from the cylinder all together.

Before putting everything back together. Clean up the old dried up grease, and apply fresh grease to the parts.

10) Asssembly is opposite of the removal. Be careful of lining up the flap spring, flap, and cover.


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Thanks for Visiting! - Eric Southers

Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.