4AGE 20V Blacktop

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Diary of Swap
Cooling System



85/6 4AGE -> 4AGZE

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Air Intake Filter
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Coolant Flush
Distributor O-Rings
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Filter

Fuel Pump Cut-off Switch

Ignition Timing
Oil Cooler Hoses
Oil Filter Adapter O-Rings
Oil Pan Gasket
Oxygen Sensor
Radiator Removal
Throttle Body Cleaning
TPS Adjustment
Water Pump


87+ Brake Upgrade
Caliper Rebuild-Front
Caliper Rebuild-Rear
Dust Shield Removal
Parking Brake Cable
SS Braided Brake Line


Ball Joint Replacement
Bushings Install - Front
Bushings Install - Rear
Steering Knuckle Removal
Struts/Springs - Front
Struts/Springs - Rear
Sway Bar End Links


87+ Antenna Replacement
Clear Turn Signals - Front
Clear Turn Signals - Rear
Door Hinges
Interior Door Triangles
Interior Headliner Painting
Interior Trim & Light Lens
Power Window Regulator
Rekeying Trunk Lock
Rust PM - Battery Bracket

Rust PM - Front Wheel Wells
Seats - MK3
Seats - Aftermarket
Shift Boot
SideMarker Mod
Sunroof Rattle
Wiper Switch


2006 Austin
2005 Austin
2005 Topeka NA2005
2004 Galveston
2004 Chattanooga SE2004
2003 Galveston
2002 Austin


Suspension Setup Pics
My MR2 Diary
Latest Pics of My MR2

Parking Brake Cable Replacement

Over time it is almost gauranteed that at least one of your parking brake cables will freeze up & need replaced. The cables run about $50 each at the dealer and that's the only place you can purchase them, unless you want to try your hands at making your own. Here's a write-up of using factory cables. Only takes 30min-1hour to do.


1) Support rear of car on jack stands and remove wheel.

2) Remove clip from the hole pin that attaches the cable to the parking brake lever on the caliper

3) Remove the U-shaped retainer holding the cable to the cable support bracket

4) Remove the undercarraige protectors. You won't have to remove them completely if you are only replacing one of the cables. But if doing both at the same time go ahead and take the time to remove them all the way.

5) Now follow the cable up towards the front of the car & remove the two 12mm bolts holding the cable support brackets to the frame of the car.

6) About a foot further to the front you'll see another brace holding to the car. Remove the 10mm bolt, and unsnap the cable from hook.

7) Another 10mm bolt & bracket

8) Now you should have enough slack to remove the end of the cable from the main assembly.

9) Remove yet another bracket held up by two 10mm bolts.

10) Pull the bracket out toward you so that you can get a good angle on it. Now slide (or pry if necessary) the plastic connector off the bracket.

11) You can then pull the cable out through the tube in the main assembly.


12) Installation of the new cable is just the opposite of its removal. You may need to loosen the tension on the cable to attach the new cable. See the next step for a pic on how to do this.

13) Once installed you will need to adjust the tension on the cable. This is easily done by turning the 2 adjusting nuts on each side of the equalizer piece that the 2 cables attach to.

  1. Pull the parking brake lever all the way up and down for 2-3 times. Then return the parking brake lever.
  2. Depress the brake pedal several times.
  3. Check to see if the parking brake crank on the calipers is in contact with the stopper pin. If not, loosen the adjusting nuts & cable until the crank begins to turn. If the crank is already touching the stopper pin, tighten the adjustin nuts & cable right before the crank stops moving.
  4. Tighten the adjusting nuts so that the equalizer is horizontal to the ground.



Parts pics:

Here's just some pics of the new cable:


Old worn out cable:

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Thanks for Visiting! - Eric Southers

Disclaimer: This web page in no way replaces the MR2 repair manual. Follow what it says before me. The purpose of this page is to give you a better pictorial description of what to do. I cannot be held responsible for any mishaps caused by this web page.